Lydford Gorge is the deepest gorge in the South West and was formed as the river Lyd eroded the valley bottom. It passes through some spectacular scenery, including areas of ancient oak woodland, and the river ranges from a babbling stream to whirling torrents and waterfalls. Thanks to the underlying granite, the water is amazingly clear and you will often spot fish in the river. Spring is a glorious time at Lydford Gorge, as the fresh green leaves start to unfurl on the trees and wildflowers appear almost everywhere. The best time to visit the gorge is after a period of heavy rain, as the Whitelady waterfall and Devil’s Cauldron will be in full flow and make a very dramatic sight. The full circular walk is about 3 miles in length and will take a couple of hours to complete. Whatever the weather, you’ll need good footwear: some of the paths are narrow and steep, with rocks underfoot that can be very slippery, even when dry.
Having walked the gorge many times, I think it works better if you start from the Whitelady waterfall: you’ll walk along the river, which is the longer part of the route, first and will have a shorter and easier walk back, when your legs will be tired! Also, the café at the Devil’s Cauldron end, which makes a great halfway stop for lunch, is much bigger than the one at the Whitelady end of the gorge. It also has outside seating and a picnic area, which are lovely for sunny days. Therefore, ignore the first car park and continue for another mile or so until you get to the additional car park. There’s a ticket office here, where you can pay or show your National Trust membership cards and pick up a map of the walk, along with other information.
From the entrance, there’s a choice of three paths to take you down to the Whitelady waterfall. The zig zag path, down 230 uneven steps, is the most direct, but you might prefer to linger along the sloped path, which follows a longer route that takes in part of the river Lyd. You’ll also pass a mine entrance (the longest in the gorge), which is covered with a metal grille, as it’s a winter hibernation roost for Greater and Lesser Horseshoe bats. The third option takes you via the railway path and bird hide, which gives you a great opportunity to see which species are visiting the feeding station.
At 30 meters, or 100 feet, the Whitelady waterfall is the highest in the South West. The falls are named after the apparition that supposedly haunts this spot, although other sources believe that the name comes from the falls’ resemblance to a silk dress tumbling down the rock face. The waterfall lies at the point where two rivers, the Lyd and the Burn, meet. The more powerful Lyd was able to erode the valley floor more quickly, hence the difference in height and resulting waterfall. This spot is a fantastic place for photographs, but be careful on the rocks, as they can be very slippery.
After viewing the waterfall, cross the suspension bridge and continue upriver on the marked trail. In this section of the walk, the water is fast-flowing, particularly around Tunnel Falls, which marks the halfway point of your outward journey. A wooden walkway takes you over a series of potholes, which were formed by the erosion of the bedrock by the river Lyd. The path takes in a tunnel, cut into the rock by the Victorians, which gives this section its name. After the falls, the river changes mood abruptly, widening out and becoming gentler in nature. This tranquil section is known as Pixie Glen. In an area surrounded by tall trees, you’ll find some of Dartmoor’s Money Trees – old logs into which hundreds of coins have been hammered by visitors over the years. Although these ones are probably relatively modern creations, the custom of hammering coins into wooden objects as a kind of offering in return for good fortune is centuries old.
The highlight of the walk has to be the Devil’s Cauldron, and it’s well worth the short detour off the main path to see it. Be warned though: this part of the route is particularly tricky underfoot and isn’t suitable for dogs or the very young. The Cauldron lies at the end of a dark and narrow ravine, the walls of which are dripping with water and covered in mosses and ferns. A specially built platform takes you out over the giant whirlpool, and you can really feel the force of nature which has helped to create this spectacle. The noise of the water can be deafening, particularly after a period of heavy rain, and the feature has a definite ‘other-worldly’ feel to it. After viewing the Cauldron, make your way back onto the main path and up the steep hill to the visitor centre and café, where you can stop for refreshments and a rest. Alternatively, you might want to continue along the path to Tucker’s Pool, which will add another 30 minutes onto your walk. This area is much less visited than the main gorge, so it can be a great place to escape and take some time to enjoy the surroundings.
You’ll be pleased to know that the walk back is slightly shorter and the going is easier, with only a few steep sections. The route takes you along the top of the valley through semi-ancient woodland – to your right, steep slopes lead down to the river below. At this time of year, the slopes are carpeted with wild garlic and bluebells and make a spectacular sight. During the summer, you might spot an iridescent blue Dor beetle, a type of dung beetle, basking on the path. After about a mile, you will arrive back at the waterfall, and your starting point. There’s another tearoom here, should you need reviving before your journey home!
